Northern Tier Day #11 Middleport, NY to Buffalo, NY

Northern Tier Day #11

May 30, 2019

Middleport, NY to Buffalo, NY 82 Miles

Ride Time 6:39

Tour Total 867 Miles

details at: https://cyclemeter.com/058ffe3224dd3702/Cycle-20190530-0723-60129

I slept relatively well on the cement slab under the pavilion, by the canal marina in Middleport. Last evening in my hammock, while editing my report, it got cold and I had to pull out my sleeping bag. The geese squawked throughout the night. Two people were walking their dogs down the towpath first thing this morning.

I got a 7:30 start and it was a little confusing figuring out how to leave Middleport. Sure, go west following the canal- but there was no cinder path, only grass. I pedaled down a local road alongside the levee and eventually rode up through the grass and found myself back on the towpath. It was a peaceful morning ride alongside the canal. I saw a duck gracefully land on the water, and could hear the roar of traffic from State Route 31 in the distance.

My bike is covered in mud. My panniers are smeared with muck. There’s a grating noise coming from my front wheel, and I’m sure that it’s sludge caked to the wheel that’s rubbing against the inside of the fender. My front wheel bore the brunt of the mire. I wonder how many pounds of mud are stuck to my bike.

At one point a deer gracefully galloped beside me on the towpath. I passed the small town of Gasport, which was lovely. The corn fields have been plowed and recently planted. I rode alongside a kayaker in the canal. He had a good pace but I passed him pretty quickly. The decommissioned Adams Street lift bridge was left in the up position. It was nice to see those pedestrian stairs lead somewhere for a change.

It was pretty thrilling to ride into Lockport from the east. I could see a high train trestle up ahead that crossed over the canal, which was now a deep cut through high ground to either side. It was nice to grasp the Lake Erie grade that I was headed towards. Before I hit the narrow cut, I rode around the Lockport Canal Construction lot. The train trestle was about 100 feet above the surface of the canal. I could see the massive lock gates ahead. A groundhog ran across the path and then up alongside the towpath.

Lockport’s famous ‘flight of five’ locks were an engineering marvel back in the day. The locks climbed the 50’ Niagara Escarpment to reach the level of Lake Erie. Much of the original locks were currently being renovated, and there was construction equipment everywhere. After the final lock the towpath ended, and I found myself back amongst motorized traffic.

I went to Tim Horton’s for breakfast and had an egg sandwich, a chocolate donut, a frappuccino, and an orange juice. There were a lot of characters inside the store. A nice woman approached me and said that her son‘s Boy Scout troop recently did a 100 mile bike tour. The scout leaders told the boys that the trail network they were riding on extended from coast to coast. That notion apparently blew the boys’ minds. It certainly blows mine.

The trail was over. I was stuck in traffic and having to pay attention what streets I was on, and what the next turn would be. I stopped at the Niagara Spray Wash and Power Wash. Score! I had been concerned about bringing my muddy rig into Scott’s apartment. I power washed off all of the mud. It was indeed caked up underneath my fenders. I power washed my panniers as well. It was a bargain at $1.75.

Afterwards I rode through the industrial areas of Lockport on Upper Mountain Road on my way to Canada. It was mostly overcast but the sun was peeking through just a little. Not a bad day for touring. There was no longer rain in the forecast. Lucky me! Just like threading a needle.

I wished a good morning to every pedestrian I encountered. It’s a nice little exchange that one doesn’t get with motorized transportation. I passed through the Tuscarora Nation Reservation. Cartons of cigarettes are only $14 at Smokin’ Joe’s Trading Post. I saw a bluebird darting through the trees, and witnessed two possum roadkills. I passed a sign that read, ‘New York State time to let our six nations live in peace’.

The border crossing was a pain, as I knew it would be. The ACA paper map detail was small and difficult to read. The app was routed for eastbound traffic. I went the wrong way and realized it about a mile too late. I turned around and figured it out. The whole border crossing is set up for motorized traffic. I just wanted to blend in and get across. Additionally the US side of the border was under construction. I passed over the Lewiston-Queenston bridge over the Niagara River, which was a gorgeous turquoise color. The officer on the Canadian side was totally cool.

The border problem continued though. I entered Canada on a major highway with a fence to the side of the road. I couldn’t get over to the local road that I needed to be on. I had to continue several miles the wrong way. Meanwhile ATT was trying to sell me an international data package. I met a local cyclist who agreed that the long cyclist run around was a pain. He wished me a good ride.

I rode by the massive Ontario Power Hydroelectric Plant and Sir Adam Beck Generating Station. Then I got on the Niagara Recreational Trail right alongside the bluffs adjoining the mighty Niagara River.

I could see the towers and Niagara Falls tourist sites in the distance. It was interesting to be approaching Niagara Falls from down river. Helicopter tours were overhead. As I got closer, the water down below became frothy white and roaring.

I rode through the tourist areas of both Niagara and Horseshoe Falls. I had to pedal really slow to avoid hitting someone on the pedestrian path. Horseshoe Falls was incredibly wet and misty. I didn’t want to do the tourist thing so I stayed on route and followed the Niagara River. I was now at Lake Erie level. I was no longer looking down at the river.

I continued on the Niagara Recreational Trail alongside the Niagara Parkway. The north fork of Niagara River was to my left with Grand Island in the distance. The throngs of tourists were gone, and the route was desolate. I got fed up with the Niagara Recreational Trail which meandered all over the place, in and out of service roads and peoples driveways. I decided to stick to the Niagara Parkway. There wasn’t much traffic, and I could go faster.

Everything’s in metric here in Canada. The speed limit is 60 Km an hour. There was a warning sign for ducks crossing the road for the next 6 Km. Everyone seemed to be mowing their lawn, and the smell of clippings permeated the air.

The Canadian side was so peaceful. I saw nothing but industry on the American side, with factories, smokestacks, water and electrical towers clearly visible across the river. I followed the Niagara River to Lake Erie, and I’d be crossing back into the USA from Fort Erie, Canada to Buffalo.

I took the Peace Bridge back into the USA, and it was not a peaceful experience. Firstly, it was was difficult to figure out how to get onto the bridge. There was no clear route for cyclists. I went the wrong way down an exit ramp to get onto the main highway to approach the bridge. There was no Canadian customs post. The Peace Bridge was under construction. They were rebuilding the pedestrian and cycle lane, and construction workers were actively working in the lane. I dodged construction barrels until I hit the gauntlet. I tried to stay in the pedestrian/bicycle lane under construction. The workers told me I couldn’t proceed so I went back to the fork. I was now mid-bridge. Meanwhile there was a big white pick-up truck with flashing yellow lights trying to call my attention. I didn’t want to put my bike in the back of the truck, because I didn’t want a gap. I turned on my blinking rear light and continued through the gauntlet. When I got over to the customs area on the US border, the officer in the pick-up truck pulled up next to me and start screaming. She made me go through a special customs gate and I thought I was going to get reamed. The customs agent at the gate was very friendly, though, and it all worked out.

Even though I was back in the USA my Google Maps app still thought I was in Canada. It kept giving me all my directions in kilometers. Google Maps found me some nice bike paths through the industrial ruins of Buffalo to get to Scott’s house. After the industrial area, I followed the path through a Japanese garden and then a golf course. I found myself on bike route 517 aka State Route 5 East. I rode by the impressive University of Buffalo campus. As I finish this report, I’m at the Anchor Bar waiting for Scott.

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