Northern Tier Day #60 Stealhead Park, WA to Anacortes, WA

Northern Tier Day #60

July 19, 2019
Howard Miller Stealhead Park, WA to Anacortes, WA 62 Miles
Ride Time 5:02
Tour Total 4667 Miles
details at: https://cyclemeter.com/058ffe3224dd3702/Cycle-20190719-0733-15102

I slept well last night, alongside the Skagit River at the Howard Miller Stealhead Park Campground. At some point it started raining, and I knew my laundry outside on the line was getting drenched. I woke up before 6am, and it was miserable out. I stuck my head outside my tent. Team Spokane were still in their tents, so I stayed warm and dry and spent some time working on backlogged reports.

Last night I had showered and done my laundry while I bathed. The shower cost 25¢ a minute and I inserted 8 quarters into the mechanism. I only needed 6 to get the job accomplished and return to level 1. After hanging my laundry, my plan was to ride over to the bar to work on my overdue reports. Unfortunately the bar closed at 9pm and it was 9:15. I retreated to the campsite which was buzzing with mosquitoes. I climbed into my tent and tried to edit reports, but was exhausted and soon fell asleep.

With the rain this morning, Jeff had the brilliant idea to lug everything over to the picnic pavilion and pack up under cover. I wheeled over my loaded bike, made a second trip with my assembled tent, and a third jaunt with my soaking wet laundry. Under cover the wrap was controlled and civilized. Henry had the wise idea to use the hand dryer in the bathroom to dry his gloves. I didn’t realize what he was doing until just before we were heading out. My gloves were soaking wet, smelly, and disgusting. It was a misty and foggy start, and I illuminated my red blinking tail light to alert motorists. I saw a sign that the junction with Interstate 5 was only 37 miles away.

The rumble strips were full of water, and the pavement was wet. It stopped raining for a moment. People here jest about how quickly the weather can change. It was a 9 mile ride to Concrete, population 705, where I’d be having breakfast.

This part of Washington reminded me of my time at Pilchuck Glass School, where I did two summer residences in the mid-90’s. I remember the intense green foliage, the mist and frequent drizzle, the giant slugs and the slug smears. Chris and Brian texted me a photo of them dipping their front wheels yesterday in Anacortes. They’re now on their way to Vancouver.

I didn’t expect much from Concrete and was therefore pleasantly surprised. It was a nice little town with pleasant shops on Main Street. I went to 5b’s Bakery where I ordered an egg sandwich, a blueberry danish, and a cappuccino, my first since Brooklyn. I frantically worked the WiFi to upload photos and slapped temporary text into my journal, while Team Spokane scrutinized the day’s route. I was way behind on my journal, because I haven’t had Wi-Fi nor alone time. Traveling in a tribe has a different set of dynamics. ‘This Boys Life’, with Leonardo DiCaprio, was filmed in Concrete in 1993. I ordered another danish before I left.

I took the wonderful Cascade Trail to Sedro-Woolley, instead of State Highway 20 or the ACA route. It was an old railroad line that was now cinder. It coursed through dense green forest packed with ferns and waterfalls, and was extremely pleasant! I was on the last two ACA paper map panels, and could now see the end of the route in Anacortes. We came upon a BMX jump to the side of the path and we all took turns on our loaded bikes. I felt like I was 10 years old! A way down the trail there was a downed tree blocking the way. I had to lift my loaded bike over the trunk to get to the other side. The wild lilacs along the trail smelled incredibly fragrant!

Coming into Sedro-Woolley, population 10,540, the trail turned to asphalt. I went to Tequila Azteca where I had the chicken mole with an extra large Dos XX Amber. Sedro-Woolley is only 43 feet above sea level. Thinking ahead, I booked a post-tour hotel in Seattle.

The trail through town was nice, and then it dumped me out onto State Highway 20, where I had a nice wide shoulder. A road side fruit stand was selling cherries for $2 a bucket. The ACA route put me on back roads and side roads going around Burlington, but I was basically just following State Highway 20. I passed numerous different hues of flowering hydrangeas. The air smelled briny, and it felt like I was near the sea. I passed underneath Interstate 5, and the Cascade range could still be seen to the east. It was now flat on the coastal plain surrounded by fields of grass and wheat. I passed a waste transfer station outside of Fredonia where free wood was advertised, the best price since Maine.

State Highway 20 from Fredonia to Anacortes was 4 lanes separated by a grass median, and felt like a freeway. There was considerable motorized traffic, and nothing like a day ago or before. I passed the first road sign for Anacortes, and was once again on Highway 20 as I’d been for days.

There was a massive bridge spanning Swinomish Channel, and fortunately there was a bike lane separated from motorized traffic. Anacortes is located on Fidaldo Island which felt fitting, as I had begun my tour on Mount Desert Island off the coast of Maine. I laid eyes on the Pacific Ocean, and entered the Samish Indian Nation.

I passed the ‘Anacortes City Limits’ sign, and behind the fence was a large collection of lobster traps. The tide was out, as I rode alongside the shoreline. I passed the massive Shell Puget Sound Refinery along with a BNSF train line with tanker cars. I took a fantastic bike path over an old train trestle and viaduct into the city center. It was thrilling to be out over the sea.

There was a fantastic bike trail along the shoreline. Pedestrians were walking their dogs, fishing, and crabbing. The saltwater smell was pervasive, and seagulls were everywhere. I passed a marina with fishing and sail boats that extended for miles. My water bottle cage unexpectedly broke, and it didn’t matter one bit.

I rode through town and then along the shoreline looking for a place to dip my front wheel. Each dead-end gravel road down to the water was a disappointment and I had to shift to my lowest gears to return to the highway. At long last Team Spokane and I found a beach where our bikes could greet the Pacific. Beach goers were elated with our accomplishment, and a friendly bystander handed Jeff a box of Drumstick ice cream cones.

The plan was to then catch a ferry to Lopez Island, and time was running out, so we rode to the terminal and purchased our tickets. Boarding was a similar experience to the Staten Island Ferry, but the views were much better. I rode onto the boat and strapped my heavy bike to a side rail. I ran upstairs for a beer while I edited my reports. The scenery weaving through the San Juan Islands was spectacular. At long last we docked at Lopez Island and there was an exodus of motor vehicles, kayaks, pedestrians, and cyclists.

Lopez Island was idyllic. There were numerous small farms, sheep grazing, and tame bunnies. I set up camp at Odlin County Park, which was full, but the friendly host allowed us to pitch our tents in the overflow area. My tent and last night’s laundry was still soaking wet.

I rode into town and went to Haven, where I had the Ahi Tuna Poke Bowl with 2 pints of Kulshan Brewing Local Amber. For desert I enjoyed the raspberry & rhubarb pie with ice cream, while I witnessed an extraordinary sunset. I had a nice ride back to camp, where campers were partying down on the beach with bonfires. I attempted to finish today’s report but it was freezing cold, and I was exhausted. The night sky was clear and I could see the Big Dipper.

I spent the following day on Lopez Island. I visited the farmers market and then explored the island with Team Spokane. I visited Studio 45 Glass and Brewvado Tap Room, before taking the ferry back to Anacortes. Henry almost missed the boat back, and Tim's wife, Priscilla, met us at the terminal. After dropping off my bike at Skagit Cycle Center, Team Spokane gave me a lift to Seattle, where I would be spending two nights. From Seattle I'd be traveling by train to Portland, where I’d be spending a few days with friends.

The last couple of days have been intense, and it’s been an incredible adventure. There were times early on when I asked myself, ‘What was I doing?’ The tour ended up being amazing. I was out there absolutely living the dream for 60 days. This odyssey has come to an end, but I expect others will follow. When I get back home I’ll write an epilogue and a gear review. I’ll edit the text and add maps and GPS data. That activity will help me process what I’ve just experienced.

Thanks for following my adventure. Most definitely get out there and go for a long bike ride. We are fortunate to live in a such a beautiful world.