Epilogue
How do I write an epilogue for something that I wish wasn’t over?
I’ll begin where I left off. I stayed in Seattle at the Belltown Inn, where I spent two nights. It was a trendy neighborhood and an expensive stay. It was nice taking a shower and sleeping in a king-sized bed. I spent the first morning finishing my incomplete reports before venturing out on a rented bicycle. I rode to Feathered Friends, where I brought my sleeping bag to be washed. It was a pain to do myself last year. I’ve used their bags since 1987. Afterwards I went to the epic REI flagship store to swap out my MSR tent that was still under warranty. I got the latest version that had a new pole design. The friendly clerk gave me suggestions for things to do in Seattle, and I promptly went to the Pike Brewing Company where I ordered two dozen oysters and way too many beers. The next day I took a train to Portland, where I spent 3 nights with my friends Justin and Kim.
I took the redeye back to New York and arrived Friday morning. It was strange being home. I rode over to Charlotte’s house, and later retrieved the 2 jars of huckleberries from her office. I baked a huckleberry pie the next morning and took a train upstate to go to a party at my friends Bill and Itty. Blanka the dog met Charlotte and I there, and we all spent the night. Bill and Itty had hung all of my post cards, feathers, and antelope bone up on their wall. It was good to see Blanka, who took about a week to transition being back with me in Brooklyn. She had been up in the country with my friends Shari and Rick.
David Siskind, who I ran into west of Dickinson, sent me a copy of his book, ‘Bicycling The Adventure Cycling Northern Tier Trail Across America - Tour Story of Two Sometimes Grumpy Old Men’ published by Books About Bicycling in Minneapolis. He enclosed a nice note telling me that he enjoyed my blog. The route had changed from when he first did it in 1998, yet I recognized a lot of the places in the book.
I finally got an email from Skagit Cycle Center telling me that my bike was on it’s way. At the time of writing, 19 days after dropping it off, I still haven’t received it. They charged me $260.83, which included $75 labor for bike boxing. Last year it was $150 from Astoria, and my bike was waiting for me when I returned.
I’ve been in touch with Team Spokane, and heard that Henry and Linda returned to work. I heard from Chris, who made it to Jasper after having climbed an emotional 12,000 pass. He was planning to take a train across Canada to Montreal, and then cycle back down to Brooklyn. Fellow TransAm cyclist Asa has made it to North Dakota. Kyle from the TransGang is talking about doing the Great Divide Mountain Biking Trail next summer and I said that I’d join him. Coincidentally, Steve H just purchased maps for that tour as well.
My biggest take-away from this tour was the realization that a cross-country bike tour doesn’t have to be a once in a lifetime event. I can do it every summer. I met a couple in their 80’s doing it, which at that rate gives me 23 more tours.
The best part of my cross country tours has been reaching the Rocky Mountains, and then the expanse west to the coast. I enjoy going east to west, and having this breathtaking terrain to look forward to. Two thirds of this year’s trip was spent getting to the Rockies, whereas last year it occurred at the midpoint. Something changes when I reach the mountains. This year, for example, I stopped documenting every cyclist I met. The tour no longer seemed like a job. I let myself enjoy the staggering beauty.
The Northern Tier had a much cooler climate than the TransAm, and there was less climbing. There was less overt displays of racism and the beer was better. Both tours were fantastic, and equally good. Every tour offers unique experiences, for example, Charlotte and I found Palmyra creeping when we rode the Erie Canal, but this time I enjoyed it. Traveling by myself, I found that I rode more miles per day than on the TransAm with others. The Northern Tier covered more milage, but I did it in a week’s less time. I regret that I didn’t stop for the county fair in Chinook or go to the Sleeping Buffalo hot springs. I never got lonely out there. I had my archived radio shows, and I was able to stay in touch with friends through text messages, emails, phone conversations, and social media. I struck up conversations with fellow cyclists, bartenders and store clerks. Locals were the best source of information. I enjoyed meeting the French couple, traveling with Team Spokane, and meeting up with the Brooklyn boys. It was fun to share beautiful experiences and to make new friends.
I was asked by a reader on Crazy Guy to not be political but how could I not be effected by what I witnessed? I passed numerous overtly political signs in people’s front yards, saw many dozens of roadside crash monuments, and witnessed vast flooding that will effect this year’s crop yields and a whole region of farmers’ livelihoods. I was disgusted by cigarette smoke in public places, met beekeepers who were concerned about pesticides, and saw billboards addressing the methamphetamine epidemic. Obesity is rampant here. I rode through one hollowed-out town after another all across the country, where the youth is given a stark choice between military service or drug abuse. There are very few opportunities for our youth, and most Americans are not wealthy. Many have holes in their jeans and can only afford a half a tank of gas. Middle America values cars, guns, and the bible. People are earnest and kind. Except for the relatively few aggressive honking motorists, I had absolutely zero negative experiences. I kept thinking about the early settlers who were duped out west in the ‘Treasure State’. Between 1921 and 1925 one out of every two Montana farmers lost their place to mortgage foreclosures. The promised dream that didn’t measure up seems to be a reoccurring American theme of quick deals, scams, and greed. The survivors of the Native American genocide who were forced into the worst land, and who continue to be cheated. It’s survival of the fittest, yet the kind little people keep plugging along.
I highly recommend clicking on my GPS Cyclemeter links. My route is shown in detail and the street views are useful. Also check out Jeff’s animation that I posted for Washington Pass, which shows the mountainous terrain. Regarding practical matters, ATT was a fairly good carrier this tour. I only had a few days without service. Cheap camping and accommodations were much better west of Minnesota. I played it safe where I slept and with weather. I took very few camping risks and only stealth camped once.
My goal for next tour is to reduce weight. My rig weighed 20lbs. more than individuals in Team Spokane. That said I’d continue to bring, for example, my extension cord and lock. I don’t like to cram my panniers, and will continue with six pieces. I’ve looked carefully at my gear list and will make small cuts and reduce redundancies. Groups are able to share tools and cooking equipment.
Bike touring offers the perfect challenge for me, and I view it as the best way to travel. It’s the perfect speed to experience the world, and it’s easy to stop. Cycling allows contact with locals, and offers an equitable distribution of spending to areas and people who could use it. We should be thankful to live in such a beautiful world, and we should do everything in our means to take care of our planet and one another.
I’ll begin where I left off. I stayed in Seattle at the Belltown Inn, where I spent two nights. It was a trendy neighborhood and an expensive stay. It was nice taking a shower and sleeping in a king-sized bed. I spent the first morning finishing my incomplete reports before venturing out on a rented bicycle. I rode to Feathered Friends, where I brought my sleeping bag to be washed. It was a pain to do myself last year. I’ve used their bags since 1987. Afterwards I went to the epic REI flagship store to swap out my MSR tent that was still under warranty. I got the latest version that had a new pole design. The friendly clerk gave me suggestions for things to do in Seattle, and I promptly went to the Pike Brewing Company where I ordered two dozen oysters and way too many beers. The next day I took a train to Portland, where I spent 3 nights with my friends Justin and Kim.
I took the redeye back to New York and arrived Friday morning. It was strange being home. I rode over to Charlotte’s house, and later retrieved the 2 jars of huckleberries from her office. I baked a huckleberry pie the next morning and took a train upstate to go to a party at my friends Bill and Itty. Blanka the dog met Charlotte and I there, and we all spent the night. Bill and Itty had hung all of my post cards, feathers, and antelope bone up on their wall. It was good to see Blanka, who took about a week to transition being back with me in Brooklyn. She had been up in the country with my friends Shari and Rick.
David Siskind, who I ran into west of Dickinson, sent me a copy of his book, ‘Bicycling The Adventure Cycling Northern Tier Trail Across America - Tour Story of Two Sometimes Grumpy Old Men’ published by Books About Bicycling in Minneapolis. He enclosed a nice note telling me that he enjoyed my blog. The route had changed from when he first did it in 1998, yet I recognized a lot of the places in the book.
I finally got an email from Skagit Cycle Center telling me that my bike was on it’s way. At the time of writing, 19 days after dropping it off, I still haven’t received it. They charged me $260.83, which included $75 labor for bike boxing. Last year it was $150 from Astoria, and my bike was waiting for me when I returned.
I’ve been in touch with Team Spokane, and heard that Henry and Linda returned to work. I heard from Chris, who made it to Jasper after having climbed an emotional 12,000 pass. He was planning to take a train across Canada to Montreal, and then cycle back down to Brooklyn. Fellow TransAm cyclist Asa has made it to North Dakota. Kyle from the TransGang is talking about doing the Great Divide Mountain Biking Trail next summer and I said that I’d join him. Coincidentally, Steve H just purchased maps for that tour as well.
My biggest take-away from this tour was the realization that a cross-country bike tour doesn’t have to be a once in a lifetime event. I can do it every summer. I met a couple in their 80’s doing it, which at that rate gives me 23 more tours.
The best part of my cross country tours has been reaching the Rocky Mountains, and then the expanse west to the coast. I enjoy going east to west, and having this breathtaking terrain to look forward to. Two thirds of this year’s trip was spent getting to the Rockies, whereas last year it occurred at the midpoint. Something changes when I reach the mountains. This year, for example, I stopped documenting every cyclist I met. The tour no longer seemed like a job. I let myself enjoy the staggering beauty.
The Northern Tier had a much cooler climate than the TransAm, and there was less climbing. There was less overt displays of racism and the beer was better. Both tours were fantastic, and equally good. Every tour offers unique experiences, for example, Charlotte and I found Palmyra creeping when we rode the Erie Canal, but this time I enjoyed it. Traveling by myself, I found that I rode more miles per day than on the TransAm with others. The Northern Tier covered more milage, but I did it in a week’s less time. I regret that I didn’t stop for the county fair in Chinook or go to the Sleeping Buffalo hot springs. I never got lonely out there. I had my archived radio shows, and I was able to stay in touch with friends through text messages, emails, phone conversations, and social media. I struck up conversations with fellow cyclists, bartenders and store clerks. Locals were the best source of information. I enjoyed meeting the French couple, traveling with Team Spokane, and meeting up with the Brooklyn boys. It was fun to share beautiful experiences and to make new friends.
I was asked by a reader on Crazy Guy to not be political but how could I not be effected by what I witnessed? I passed numerous overtly political signs in people’s front yards, saw many dozens of roadside crash monuments, and witnessed vast flooding that will effect this year’s crop yields and a whole region of farmers’ livelihoods. I was disgusted by cigarette smoke in public places, met beekeepers who were concerned about pesticides, and saw billboards addressing the methamphetamine epidemic. Obesity is rampant here. I rode through one hollowed-out town after another all across the country, where the youth is given a stark choice between military service or drug abuse. There are very few opportunities for our youth, and most Americans are not wealthy. Many have holes in their jeans and can only afford a half a tank of gas. Middle America values cars, guns, and the bible. People are earnest and kind. Except for the relatively few aggressive honking motorists, I had absolutely zero negative experiences. I kept thinking about the early settlers who were duped out west in the ‘Treasure State’. Between 1921 and 1925 one out of every two Montana farmers lost their place to mortgage foreclosures. The promised dream that didn’t measure up seems to be a reoccurring American theme of quick deals, scams, and greed. The survivors of the Native American genocide who were forced into the worst land, and who continue to be cheated. It’s survival of the fittest, yet the kind little people keep plugging along.
I highly recommend clicking on my GPS Cyclemeter links. My route is shown in detail and the street views are useful. Also check out Jeff’s animation that I posted for Washington Pass, which shows the mountainous terrain. Regarding practical matters, ATT was a fairly good carrier this tour. I only had a few days without service. Cheap camping and accommodations were much better west of Minnesota. I played it safe where I slept and with weather. I took very few camping risks and only stealth camped once.
My goal for next tour is to reduce weight. My rig weighed 20lbs. more than individuals in Team Spokane. That said I’d continue to bring, for example, my extension cord and lock. I don’t like to cram my panniers, and will continue with six pieces. I’ve looked carefully at my gear list and will make small cuts and reduce redundancies. Groups are able to share tools and cooking equipment.
Bike touring offers the perfect challenge for me, and I view it as the best way to travel. It’s the perfect speed to experience the world, and it’s easy to stop. Cycling allows contact with locals, and offers an equitable distribution of spending to areas and people who could use it. We should be thankful to live in such a beautiful world, and we should do everything in our means to take care of our planet and one another.
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